A. Yotova + S. Pirev from Bononia Estate in conversation with Capital

A. Yotova + S. Pirev from Bononia Estate in conversation with Capital

25.06.2022 - Categories: Bulgarian wine, Events

Bononia Estate is located in northwestern Bulgaria between the villages of Gomotartsi and Koshava in the district of Vidin. Its vineyards extend directly on the banks of the Danube currently over an area of just over 150 hectares. Aglika Yotova, member of the owning family, presented the winery in the Bulgarian edition of Capital magazine some time ago. In addition, the production manager of Bononia Estate, Stefan Pirev, had his say there.

Bononia Estate: Born in the Spirit of Ancient Traditions

For Aglika Yotova, the management of the Bononia Estate is a matter of the heart - and the revival of an old tradition. This is also expressed in the fact that the family business, Bononia, bears the name of the ancient Roman fortress that stood nearby on the banks of the Danube and from which the present-day town of Widin emerged. In fact, behind the winery itself is a story as exciting as it is idiosyncratic. Yotova calls it a "journey through the centuries" as well as "the heritage and union of traditions from 3 centuries".

Towards the Revival of the once leading Wine Region

It all began in the 19th century, when a Hungarian named Victor Olinger founded one of the first breweries in Bulgaria here. Soon, however, he thought better of it and converted the business into a winery. The success lasted for quite a while: "Some 40 to 50 years ago, Vidin was still one of the leading wine regions in Bulgaria," explains production manager Stefan Pirev. Aglika Yotova becomes somewhat sad, however, when she reports that the region lost touch with the country's overall development in the decades that followed and even fell into oblivion. In 2010, however, the Yotov family discovered the area and was fascinated by the unique terroir and, of course, the beautiful landscapes near the Danube. So they decided to revive viticulture in the region. From the very beginning, it was important to the Yotovs to unite all steps of the production of their wines under the roof of their winery, from the vine to the bottling. The great advantage of this approach is that it allows the elaboration of distinctive wine types.

The human factor is even more important than the territory.

Bononia Estate also aims to produce outstanding wines. Aglika Yotova emphasizes that human factors such as the commitment and quality awareness of the owners and the dedicated enthusiasm of all employees are even more important than the territory. At the same time, she openly addresses the fact that these values are not always lived in Bulgaria in general and in the wine industry in particular. Bononia Estate wants to distinguish itself from many others and set an example.

Top Oenologist and Top Wine Cellar

A central role in the production of high-quality Bulgarian white and rosé wines, as well as light, fragrant red wines, rich in essential oils, is played by Stefan Pirev. He is one of Bulgaria's leading oenologists, with a career spanning more than 30 years. As production manager, he uses all his skills to develop the full potential of the terroir for the wines of Bononia Estate. As a result, they are, in his words, "elegant, fresh, rich in volume and strong in character." For Aglika Yotova, what also counts is that Bononia wines appeal to people for whom authenticity is important and who are looking for an alternative to mass-produced wines. Bononia Estate's wine cellar should therefore be among the best in Eastern Europe - also in order to restore the international reputation of Bulgarian wines.

Leaping into the International Market

However, Bononia Estate with its 4 product lines Gomotartsi, Istar, Ooh La La and Reserva is currently still mainly represented on domestic markets. Yotova mentions the grocery chains Metro, CBA and HIT, which are widespread in Bulgaria, as well as specialized wine stores such as Casa Vino and Vino Orenda. In addition, Bononia Estate wines are available in many restaurants in Sofia as well as in Bulgarian vacation resorts such as the winter sports resort of Bansko, located at the foot of the Pirin Mountains. Numerous other sales outlets are constantly being added.

But also the plans for an international appearance of Bononia Estate are well advanced as well as already implemented in parts. "We regularly participate in numerous, international exhibitions and competitions. Among them are events in Houston, USA, in London, England, in Dortmund, Germany, but also in Guangzhou, China," lists Aglika Yotova. She also reports about the popularity as well as the increasing international interest in Bulgarian wine. This even applies to outstanding wine nations such as Spain. Aglika Yotova did her doctorate there a few years ago. The subject of her dissertation was wine and Bononia Estate. For this reason, she brought some samples to the tasting and could enjoy much praise.

Grape variety Gamza on the rise

The winery also benefits from the increasing popularity of the autochthonous red grape variety Gamza, which is mainly cultivated in the Bulgarian Danube plain, and which has spread beyond the country's borders. It is one of the main focuses of Bononia Estate. Already, Gamza can be found in the Yotov family's vineyards on more than 45 hectares. "However, demand is so great that we can't take all the orders," notes Yotova, adding, "So we'll be expanding the acreage significantly soon."

The Gamza grape variety is a real winner, which also excites Stefan Pirev. Therefore, he is fully behind the revival of the old grape, even if it involves some challenges. Namely, Gamza ripens late, according to Pirev, and is susceptible to disease. In addition, the content of the typical dark blue plant pigments from the anthocyanin group is rather low. However, this is countered by a complex structure of aromatic substances and enormous ripening potential. At Bononia Estate, Pirev continues, the vision is to present the Gamza grape variety unadulterated with all its fine essence. In addition, the winery has implemented the plan to grow another authentic grape variety. This is the local Misket variety Vrachanski Misket. It is typical of the adjacent Montana district as well as the Vratsa region that follows it. But the vineyards with international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris as well as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are also in expansion.

New Wine Cellar with Hotel Facility

A great energy went and goes moreover into the major project: wine cellar with attached hotel complex in Koshava. Included in the boutique hotel SPA area, swimming pool, restaurant, conference and event rooms and special wine tasting rooms. During the construction of the property, which is beautifully situated in an arch of the Danube, special care was taken to preserve as much as possible of the original building from 1895. The wine cellar is already in operation and designed to produce up to 3,000 hl of wine per year. Bononia Estate's hotel is also nearing completion and will open before the end of 2022.